In the center of the historic section of Puerto Vallarta, looking down at the city's main church and the sea, this stunning boutique-hotel is an aesthetic masterpiece that delights independent travelers. For guests who value a sense of place and personal service over a long list of facilities, Hacienda San Angel is close to heaven.

Guests arrive on the cobblestoned street in front of the inn after their driver negotiates the steep streets and are buzzed into the courtyard of a home once owned by actor Richard Burton. The hotel is now a seamless collection of buildings once four separate houses. Pocket pools, fountains, flowers and tile work are around every corner. Such touches serve as just the framework, however, as every public and guest room is tastefully furnished with Mexican colonial antiques dating back as far as the early 1700s—so many that a 10-page list with explanations is provided in each guest room.

The Continental breakfast included in the rates is served wherever the guest chooses, in any area of the property, including the guest-room balcony or terrace. The romantic dinner restaurant is on a high terrace and features steak and seafood dishes prepared by a talented chef who is happy to accommodate requests. A good wine list and unbeatable views of the city lights are the toppers.

Three enticing tiled pools are located in different spots. One of these and a built-in hot tub have panoramic views of the city and bay. All are surrounded by quality cushioned chaises, and staffers replace towels as needed. Staffers, who all speak English fluently, can help with tour arrangements and point guests to local attractions and restaurants within walking distance. A computer is available to guests, and Wi-Fi covers part of the public areas.

Guest rooms here are a delight, ranging from average-size colonial-style bedrooms to two spacious suites with large terraces. Upgrading is a matter of availability rather than price, since the premium is fair in every case. All rooms contain the expected amenities and then some, with plush robes, Bulgari toiletries, TVs with DVD players, continually refilled pitchers of purified water and electronic safes. All are furnished differently—some of the furniture is several centuries old—and walls are covered with original oil paintings. Most rooms have a view of the water and the city.

The largest suites, with great views, are Celestial and San Miguel. Guests looking for privacy should opt for the Casa Las Campas suite, which is a one-bedroom villa across the street from the rest of the inn, perched almost directly over the dome of the Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe church.

Because of street noise, church bells and the owners' multiple barking dogs, light sleepers should pack earplugs. For another special experience, Hacienda San Angel is heavenly.

Latest Revision:   July 2009